Portsmouth to Saint-Malo with Brittany Ferries: A Family Mini-Break Without a Car
Why you don't need a car or a plane for an easy French escape
What if your next family weekend in France started with dinner in Portsmouth, a night at sea and waking up in a medieval walled city the following morning? We'd travelled to France by ferry plenty of times before, including several trips with Brittany Ferries, but this was our first time leaving the car behind. Instead, we travelled as foot passengers from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo with our toddler, Jamie, and spent two days exploring the city entirely on foot.
We parked up in Portsmouth, had some dinner and walked over to the ferry terminal. By the time we boarded, Jamie was already getting tired, so once we were in our cabin we got him into his pyjamas, settled him into his cot and watched Portsmouth disappear through the window as we sailed away. A couple of hours later, he was fast asleep and we were on our way to Brittany.
Disclosure: We travelled the Portsmouth to St Malo route as guests of Brittany Ferries. As always, all opinions are our own.
The Portsmouth to Saint-Malo route has overnight sailings leaving at 20:15, averaging around 11 hours, while the return journey is usually a 10:30 daytime sailing of around nine hours. That makes the route ideal for an easy short city break. Your overnight crossing effectively gives you a floating hotel for the first night, so you can go to sleep in Portsmouth and wake up in France, with an early arrival giving you two full days to explore. Then, on the third morning, you can have breakfast, walk back to the port and sail home at 10:30, arriving back in Portsmouth that evening.
Joining the ship in Portsmouth as a foot passenger
We'd already made a day of the journey south by visiting Fishbourne Roman Palace in nearby Chichester, so by the time we reached Portsmouth at around 5pm we were ready for dinner before boarding the ferry.
Rather than paying to park at the ferry terminal, we booked a space through JustPark at the large Morrisons about ten minutes' walk away. It cost us around £6 per day when we travelled, which was less than half what we'd have paid at the main multi-storey car park at the port.
From there, we walked to the passenger terminal with one large suitcase, Jamie's pushchair, our camera bag and his changing bag. We deliberately put everything we could into the one suitcase because we'd be using Bounce luggage storage in Saint-Malo, so there was only one bag to leave behind when we arrived.
The foot passenger entrance was clearly signposted and the process was straightforward. We checked in at the Brittany Ferries desk, received our cabin keys and started queuing for border control at around 7pm. After showing our tickets and passports, we boarded a shuttle bus which took us directly onto the ship. If you're really early, the terminal has a shop, cafe and toilets, including baby change.
Having a lift from the car deck up to the passenger decks was very useful with a pushchair and a large suitcase. We also requested a cot for Jamie, which cost around £6, so we didn't have to unpack his travel cot that night.
One packing tip we'd definitely recommend is to put your pyjamas, toothbrush bag and clothes for the following morning right at the top of your suitcase. Once you're on board, the last thing you want is to dig through half your luggage to find the things you need for bedtime.
We chose to travel as foot passengers, but you can also bring your car on the ferry if you're using Saint-Malo as the starting point for a wider Brittany road trip. And if you prefer to leave the car at home, Saint-Malo is well connected by rail, with regional trains and high-speed TGV services from the town's station to other Brittany towns and even Paris.
Our first evening on board the Saint-Malo
We were on board by around 7.30pm and our first impression of the Saint-Malo was how new and spacious it felt. The ship joined the Brittany Ferries fleet in 2025 and is one of the company's hybrid LNG-electric ships, combining LNG propulsion with battery power. The interiors have plenty of Breton character too, with black and white details inspired by Gwenn-ha-du, the Breton flag, found throughout the ship.
Our cabin wasn't quite ready when we boarded, so we headed to Breizh Ma Bro bar (which translates as "Brittany my country", a line from the regional anthem) for a drink while we waited. Jamie sat in his pushchair at the table with us, happily taking in the fact that we were on a giant ship.
Once our cabin was ready, we headed upstairs and settled into our large four-berth sea-view cabin. We kept the lower berth on one side folded up, put Jamie's cot underneath the upper berth and had David sleeping above him. I took the lower berth opposite, which left a good amount of floor space for our bags.
The cabin had an en-suite bathroom with a shower, towels, bedding and a television with Video on Demand. There were also USB charging points and UK and European sockets.
We got Jamie's nightlight, koala teddy, sleeping bag and wash bag out and started the bedtime routine. He was very excited and chatted away for a while because everything was new, and he knew he was sleeping on a ship. It was already well past his usual bedtime, though, and by around 9pm he was fast asleep, rocked by the ocean.
Jamie sat on Emma's bed David and Jamie's beds
Our bedtime set up
The view from the cabin as we sailed away was pretty special too. Portsmouth was lit up against the dark, with the Spinnaker Tower, the masts of the Historic Dockyard, Clarence Pier and Southsea Castle all visible from our window.
Once Jamie was asleep, David and I stayed in the cabin for a while. We read our books, I had a shower and Jamie slept like a dream. At around 9.15pm I left David and Jamie together in the cabin and went to watch an amazing Celine Dion tribute show in the bar. It was a small bonus after getting Jamie settled, and one of those things you don't necessarily expect from a ferry journey. Breizh Ma Bro has live entertainment on both legs of the sailing, with singers, musicians and other performances.
Why we'd book a cabin again
If you're travelling overnight with a toddler, we'd definitely book a cabin. The main reason is simple: sleep. You're choosing the overnight ferry because you don't want to lose a day travelling to France, so being able to put your toddler to bed and then get some shuteye yourself makes a huge difference. Unlike an overnight flight, Jamie could have his usual bedtime routine, we could turn the lights off, lie flat and all arrive refreshed and ready to explore.
The four-berth cabin gave the three of us plenty of room, and having a sea view made it feel like part of the trip rather than simply somewhere to sleep. Brittany Ferries offers two-, four- and six-berth cabins on the Saint-Malo, alongside sea-view and accessible options.
We booked a cabin for the daytime journey home too, and that ended up being useful for a completely different reason.
A cabin for the daytime sailing is a peaceful base camp, even if no one sleeps.
We didn't need it for sleeping, but it gave us somewhere quiet to retreat to when Jamie had had enough of the busier parts of the ship. He could look at his books, we could sit and watch cartoons and, when we'd had enough of the general excitement, we could shut the door and have some time to ourselves. While the cabin was essential for us on the overnight journey, we were glad we'd booked one for the way home too. It became our little escape pod when our overstimulated toddler needed a break.
Waking up in Saint-Malo
The ship gently wakes travellers about an hour before arrival, with music over the intercom at around 7.15am. We got dressed, had breakfast in the cabin and watched the sea outside the window.
We didn't actually leave the ship until around 8.30am. Foot travellers wait in the lounge while the cars disembark, then you're called down to the car deck and taken by shuttle bus to the terminal. In the meantime, we stood out on deck admiring the views of Saint-Malo's impressive fortifications.
Saint-Malo views from the deck while we wait to disembark
The port is only around ten minutes' walk from the town centre, so there was no taxi queue, bus journey or transfer to organise. We put Jamie in his pushchair and walked towards Intra-Muros. Our apartment was right in the walled city but we were too early for check-in, so we left our suitcase at Les 4 Saisons, a little green grocer on Rue de l'Orme offering luggage storage through Bounce, and headed off to explore Brittany's Corsair town.
Two days in Saint-Malo without a car
Saint-Malo is a fantastic destination for a car-free family break, but the reason we'd recommend it isn't just because it's easy to get to from the ferry port - the city itself is beautiful! Walking through the gates of Intra-Muros, you're surrounded by narrow cobbled streets, handsome granite buildings and little squares, with the huge ramparts rising around the whole city. Then, at the end of the streets, the sea is always there. You can climb onto the ramparts and look across the bay, spot the forts and islands offshore, or wander down to the beaches below. We loved simply wandering around, popping into cafes and seeing where the streets took us. It felt like a historic maritime film set!
On our first day, we walked to Saint-Servan market for picnic supplies, wandered along the full circuit of ramparts, visited the cathedral and stopped for our first kouign-amann and a bolée of cider. Then we headed down to Plage de Bon Secours, where Jamie could paddle in the amazing seawater swimming pool before we walked out to Grand Bé and Petit Bé while the tide was out. We finished the day with moules for dinner.
Jamie was completely in his element. He's a water baby anyway, so the beach and swimming pool were always going to be a hit, but he was just as happy trying cheese at the market and running along the ramparts.
We used the pushchair throughout the trip, although some of the streets inside Intra-Muros are very cobbled, so that's worth bearing in mind if you're travelling with a small buggy.
The following day we walked out to Môle des Noires, explored more of Intra-Muros and stopped for ice cream from Sanchez before visiting the Étoile du Roy. We spent the afternoon on Sillon Beach, where we had oysters overlooking the sea and Fort National, before heading back into town for dinner at Breizh Café. Michelin Guide galettes and cider were a perfect way to finish our Brittany mini-break.
The daytime sailing back to Portsmouth
The return journey was the part of the trip I was most curious about before we went. I knew the daytime sailing would take around nine hours, but having done long daytime flights with a toddler, I was interested to see how we'd fill that much time on a ship when he wasn't going to sleep.
We walked back to the port from Intra-Muros, arriving at around 9.35am for our 10.30am sailing. One crucial thing to know is to allow a little extra time for this walk because the bridge out of the city can lift to let boats through. It happened to us and cost us around ten minutes.
The foot passenger process was similar to Portsmouth. We went through border control, boarded the shuttle bus and were taken to the ship. We were on board at around 10.10am, dropped our bags in the cabin and went to find some lunch. We ate at Le Jardin, where I had delicious carbonara jacket potatoes for a bargainous €6.50. The restaurant has a plant-focused approach but serves both meat and plant-based dishes, alongside Breton specialities including savoury and sweet crêpes. It's a counter-service restaurant, so we could grab a tasty lunch without turning it into a big formal affair.
After lunch, we started exploring. Jamie instantly fell in love with the children's play area, especially the digital colouring games and the little ferry he could climb into. We spent plenty of time up on the sundeck too, with the outdoor play areas and slides giving him somewhere to burn off some energy in the fresh air. He ran through puddles left by the sea spray and stood at the railings with the wind blowing in his face like a puppy hanging out of a car window.
We looked around the Breton exhibition gallery, listened to live music in Breizh Ma Bro and met the ship's cuddly mascot, Pierre the Bear, which sent Jamie into absolute raptures. There was another live music set around 4pm, and I joined a sailor's knot-tying workshop while David and Jamie did their own thing.
Celine Dion, Pierre the Bear and dolphin spotting
There was bingo and a quiz happening too, although we never got around to either of them.
When Jamie had had enough of the noise and activity, we went back to our cabin. He looked at his books while we read and watched some Video on Demand. He didn't even need a nap, although David managed one.
By the time we arrived in Portsmouth at around 6.15pm, Jamie had had a full day on board without ever getting fed up or asking to do something else. He'd had plenty to explore, plenty of space to run around and lots of opportunities to come back to the cabin when he needed a quieter break.
The cars disembark first, so we waited around 30 minutes, admiring the views of Portsmouth's impressive navy ships, before going down to the car deck in the lift and boarding the shuttle bus. We were back at our car within about half an hour of being called down!
What else is on board?
It feels like we only scratched the surface of everything available on the Saint-Malo. There are three restaurants on board, so you can choose between the French brasserie-style Le Littoral, plant-focused Le Jardin and the CClub Lounge, a more upmarket option with panoramic sea views and a buffet-style dining experience. The CClub is available for an additional charge and has limited places, so it is worth booking ahead if you want to try it.
Breizh Ma Bro is the main bar and entertainment space, with its black and white Breton-inspired design, live music and other performances. There is also a quieter adjoining lounge if you want somewhere to sit away from the main bar.
For families, there are indoor children's spaces as well as two outdoor play areas on the open decks, with slides and plenty of room to run around. There is also La Plage, a more relaxed space inspired by Saint-Malo's Plage du Sillon, where you can sit and look out to sea, play board games or simply take a break from the busier parts of the ship.
If you're travelling as a foot passenger and you haven't booked a cabin, there is a left luggage room on board so you don't have to keep your larger bags with you throughout the crossing, and showers are available too if you want to freshen up along the way.
And if you're travelling without children, or simply fancy some time to yourself, the ship even has a Wellness Room. Created with Saint-Malo-based spa brand Phytomer, it offers a range of spa treatments in a sea-view setting. There's also a duty-free shop and Wi-Fi (first hour free).
We didn't use all of these facilities during our trip, but that's part of what makes the Saint-Malo great for all kinds of travellers. You can spend the crossing eating and drinking, watching the entertainment, keeping the children busy, relaxing somewhere quiet or simply sitting outside in the sun watching the Channel go by.
Nine hours on a ferry with a toddler?
If you're nervous about the sailing home, don't be. The ship gave us something a plane doesn't: freedom. We weren't tied to one seat for the whole journey, flicking through films and persuading Jamie to keep his seatbelt on. He could wander, look out to sea and explore the ship whenever he fancied it. Jamie was also genuinely fascinated by the ship itself. He loved looking out of the cabin window, watching the sea from the restaurant and sundeck and wandering through the long corridors and staircases between decks. We didn't need to fill every minute with an activity, although the schedule of things to do was brilliant. Some of the time was spent strolling the decks, looking out for dolphins or sitting down together with a cup of tea listening to music. By the time we reached Portsmouth, our mini cruise had passed surprisingly quickly and Jamie had never been bored.
A family mini-break without a car
Saint-Malo turned out to be a perfect family city break, and leaving the car behind didn't make it any more complicated. We could walk straight into town from the ferry port, take our time, stop for food whenever we fancied it and let Jamie burn off some energy without constantly thinking about the next bit of transport. Then, when it was time to come home, we had the whole ship to explore before arriving back in Portsmouth that evening.
For a couple of days in France with a toddler, the whole trip was incredibly easy. We travelled overnight rather than giving up a day to get there, walked straight into Saint-Malo from the port and then had a whole day on the ship to enjoy all the facilities on the way home. By the time we arrived back in Portsmouth, it genuinely felt like we'd squeezed an extra day of holiday out of the trip. We'd happily do it again.
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