Can you visit the DMZ with children? A complete guide to how we did it with our two year old.
- teamthomastravels
- 3 hours ago
- 9 min read
If you’re planning a trip to Seoul, one experience will most likely be right at the top of your must-do list: a day trip to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). As the most heavily fortified border in the world, a visit to the DMZ is a powerful encounter with history, offering a direct view into the geopolitical fault line that defines modern Korea. It’s a sobering and utterly unique experience that can’t be missed and regularly tops the most popular things to do in and around Seoul.
But if you’re traveling with your family, that iconic excursion comes with extra questions: Is the DMZ appropriate for children? Is it safe? Can I take a pushchair on the tour bus? The good news is that with the right preparation and the right tour, visiting the DMZ with kids, even toddlers, is absolutely feasible. We successfully tackled the DMZ with our 22-month-old, proving that you don't have to sacrifice this piece of history just because you travel with little ones. We’ve broken down the logistics, the strict rules, and the specific sites to bring you the ultimate, fuss-free guide to making this unforgettable trip work, even with your smallest explorer in tow.
Context: Why should I visit the DMZ?
Before diving into the logistics of bringing little ones, it helps to understand why a trip to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is such an integral part of the Korean experience for almost every visitor. The DMZ represents the physical line drawn after the Korean War ended in an armistice, not a peace treaty. This means the two Koreas are still technically at war, making the DMZ a unique piece of living history. For some travellers, it’s a powerful, sobering reminder of this decades-long conflict. For others, it's a form of "dark tourism" - the chance to visit a war zone of sorts and to glimpse into North Korea: the world's most reclusive country.
Sites like the Third Infiltration Tunnel (dug by North Korea) and the Bridge of Freedom (used for prisoner exchange) help tourists connect deeply with the tragic stories of still separated families and the profound desire for reunification that exists in the South.
Choosing your tour: DMZ vs. JSA (spoiler: pick DMZ)
Booking a DMZ tour isn't as simple as other coach trip excursions you might have booked on previous holidays - it requires specific approvals and operators. You can't visit independently, only by guided tour, and if you're wondering if children are allowed to visit the DMZ, that depends which tour you pick.
Tours to the border area generally fall into two categories:
The DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) Tour: This is the standard, family-friendly option. It includes major sites like the Third Infiltration Tunnel, Dora Observatory and Imjingak Park. This tour operates in areas near the border and is highly regulated by the South Korean government.
The JSA (Joint Security Area) Tour:Â This is the most tense, high-stakes option, which includes the iconic blue buildings where North and South Korean soldiers stand guard facing each other and where President Trump met Kim Jong Un in 2019.
Crucial note for families and current events:
Two significant factors make the JSA off-limits for your family trip:
Age restriction:Â Children under a strict minimum age (usually 12 years old) are prohibited from visiting the JSA due to the extreme security protocols and the high-tension nature of the area. Standard DMZ tours don't have the same age limits, which means children, even babies, can come with you.
Current closure: Since July 2023, the JSA has been closed to tourism following security incidents (specifically, an American soldier illegally crossing the border into North Korea). While a closure is not permanent, JSA tours remain suspended until further notice from the United Nations Command (UNC).
Is the DMZ appropriate for children? Is it frightening?
This is perhaps the most common question parents ask and something we pondered ourselves. The simple answer for the standard DMZ tour is yes, it is safe and appropriate for children.
Despite its militarized name, the experience you have at the main tourist sites (Imjingak Park, Dorasan Observatory, Third Infiltration Tunnel) is not frightening and is carefully managed for visitors of all ages. The area is actively presented as a symbol of hope and peace, particularly at Imjingak Park, which functions as a large, peaceful memorial for separated families. For example, your first stop will most likely be the Mangbaedan Altar, which translates roughly to "Altar for Longing and Bowing." It was erected in 1986 as a memorial site for the millions of South Koreans who were separated from their families and hometowns in North Korea during and after the Korean War.
While you will see barbed wire, military checkpoints and soldiers, the entire route is under the secure control of the United Nations Command and your tour guide. Toddlers, like our 22-month-old, will be more interested in the bus ride, his snacks and being allowed to walk than the geopolitical tension. And for older children who will be more aware of the context, this isn't like visiting Poland's Auschwitz or the Killing Fields of Phnom Penh - while the history of the DMZ is tragic, there are no graphic displays or upsetting footage to worry about. You are visiting a place of history and remembrance, not a live battlefield, and touring the area reinforces the South Korean government's message and the international community's desire for a peaceful resolution and future reunification.
How child friendly are the standard DMZ stops?
A standard DMZ tour is tightly regulated, meaning nearly all operators follow the same basic itinerary. Here is a breakdown of the typical stops and our assessment of how they work when you have a 22-month-old (or children in general) in tow.
Imjingak Peace Park - easy peasy.
This is usually your first stop and the most relaxed and child-friendly part of the tour. The Peace Park is a large, open area dedicated to reunification and hope, featuring the historic Bridge of Freedom and numerous memorials. It provides much-needed open space for your toddler stretch their legs after the initial bus ride and it's a perfect spot to take care of necessary nappy changes before heading into the secured zones. If your toddler has fallen asleep on the bus, Imjingak Pyeonghwa-Nuri Peace Park is very flat/paved/buggy friendly.
The Peace Gondola Ride - highly recommended add-on.
While not always part of the base tour cost, the brand new Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola is an inexpensive attraction located right next to the coach park at your first stop. It’s a brilliant addition for families as it is the first cable car in the world to cross the Civilian Control Zone, offering a tranquil, bird’s-eye view of the Imjin River, the surrounding barbed wire fences and military posts. On the far side, the walk up to the observatory point is up a very steep paved path and then across flat dirt/leaves, so we'd recommend using the backpack carrier for this stop. The boarding area for the Gondola is lift accessible.
The Third Infiltration Tunnel - not for toddlers.
This site involves descending into one of the secret tunnels dug by the North beneath the DMZ boundary. While a fascinating experience for adults, this stop is challenging with a toddler. The walk down into the tunnel is very steep, long, and can be quite slippery, with very low ceilings in some areas. Pushchairs are strictly prohibited and the ceilings are too low to wear a backpack carrier - participants have to wear protective hard hats and stoop in order to make their way down into the claustrophobic passages. If your child is aged 6 or above, we reckon they'd be ok to walk down and back up the steep slope, but for anyone younger, be prepared to wait above ground while the rest of the tour goes in. We decided that I would skip this one and entertain Jamie outside and let him run around on his reins for a bit while David went into the tunnel. There are plenty of things to do including the famous big colourful DMZ letters that you can take a photograph with, a pond with fish, pretend railway tracks to walk along and a small museum.
Dora Observatory - very accessible.
The Observatory is the famous viewing platform where you get to look directly across the DMZ and into North Korea using powerful binoculars. It offers excellent views of the propaganda village and Kaesong City, as well as the roofs of the buildings at the JSA and the two nation's competing flag poles. While the walk up to the observatory from the car park is quite steep (albeit paved), the viewing area itself is flat and accessible, with lift access throughout, so you'd be fine with a pushchair or backpack. Not particularly interesting for toddlers but easy for him to tag along.
Unification Village (Tongilchon) - snack break.
This stop often serves a dual purpose: a quick look at a unique farming community inside the Civilian Control Zone, and a chance to use the facilities. This village is home to real residents who are exempt from taxes and military service in exchange for living under strict curfews and regulations. For the toddler, this stop is easy. It’s usually a short visit to a market shop or cafe where you can buy local agricultural products (like ginseng or soy) and, most importantly, provides a final bathroom break and a chance to stock up on snacks before the drive back to Seoul.
Pushchair vs. carrier: DMZ logistics with a toddler
This is the most critical logistical question you'll face when visiting the DMZ with a toddler, and while we ultimately recommend a backpack carrier combined with toddler reins for free walking, a pushchair is possible, if less practical.
Your DMZ tour will be taken on a coach and so any bags you bring with you will need to fit either on your lap or between your legs in your footwell. We took our Freedom S4 Carrier by Littlelife, but if you don't own a backpack carrier, a small cabin approved compact pushchair could also work such as a Stokke Yoyo or Cosatto Yo, as they will fit down by your feet on the coach and can easily be carried on and off. That being said, the tour is fast paced with strict time limits at each stop, so make sure your model is foldable one-handed and lightning-fast to collapse! You'd have to check with your tour operator, but we can't imagine any larger pushchair models being allowed as there isn't the space or time to stow them. Given the choice, we'd definitely opt for backpack over stroller, as would Jamie, who much prefers it.
What to pack for the DMZ and security checkpoints (a guide for parents)
Passport: Bringing your security documents is non negotiable and you will not be allowed to pass the strict military checkpoints without them. Every member of your party, including your toddler, must have their physical passport - a photocopied ID or driver's license will not suffice for the security check. Soldiers will come onto your bus to check every passport (you will be asked to hold them open at the photo page next to your face), so have them easily accessible.
Since facilities are limited once you enter the secured zone, you need to be self-sufficient for a few hours:
Snacks and Drinks: Bring ample toddler-friendly snacks and water. While there are small shops at Imjingak and Unification Village, you don't have much spare time to shop and the selection will be limited.
Nappies etc: Bring more nappies and wipes than you think you need. Imjingak Park, the Tunnel and Dora Observatory have clean modern bathrooms.
Reins/Safety Harness: Especially useful at the busy Dora Observatory and the open spaces of Imjingak Park, where letting your toddler roam slightly while maintaining control is vital.
Small Entertainment: A few books, a quiet tablet, or a small fidget toy for the bus ride.
Is there a DMZ Dress Code?
While not as strict as the JSA requirements, the DMZ is a military zone,so you should avoid clothing with offensive or politically sensitive slogans. Closed-toe shoes are essential, especially if you plan on descending into the tunnel (the ground can be uneven and slippery).
Which tour company we went with to visit the DMZ with a child:
Trying to choose a DMZ tour can lead to analysis paralysis: every company delivers the exact same stops, making them look interchangeable. While platforms like Klook and GetYourGuide offer convenience, we decided to book directly with the operator so that we could ask them about bringing a toddler, one of us skipping the tunnel and pick up/dropoff locations. We found that VIP Travel had excellent reviews, and their communication was fantastic, always getting back to us promptly and answering all of our questions. They were really supportive in us bringing Jamie and the tour on the day was excellent: 3 central pickup locations to choose from, a big clean coach, fantastic English speaking guide and no forced shopping stops! The tour we booked was their DMZ Half Day Tour with the Gondola ride added and we'd really recommend it for your DMZ day trip. The tickets cost us ₩80,000 each (around £40), and Jamie was free, though toddlers under three must sit on a parent’s lap on the bus.
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