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Is Bayeux worth visiting without the Bayeux Tapestry? Top things to see and do while the museum is closed.

With the Bayeux Tapestry heading to the UK and its museum temporarily closed until next year, you might be wondering whether Bayeux is still worth the trip. The short answer? Absolutely. Because while the Tapestry may be its most famous resident, Bayeux itself is the real masterpiece - a beautifully preserved Norman town overflowing with history, architecture, moving wartime stories and seriously good food. In fact, visiting now is a chance to discover everything that makes Bayeux special, beyond the embroidery that made it world-famous.


Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux dominates the skyline and is one of the town’s most impressive landmarks. A striking blend of Norman Romanesque and Gothic architecture, the cathedral was consecrated on 14 July 1077 by Bishop Odo, the half-brother of William the Conqueror. After a catastrophic fire in the 12th century, much of the building was rebuilt, but its soaring nave remains particularly impressive - and is believed to be where the Bayeux Tapestry was first displayed.


On summer evenings, the cathedral walls are beautifully illuminated in an extravagant (and free!) music and light show.


The Battle of Normandy Museum

For a deeper understanding of the events that shaped modern Normandy, the Battle of Normandy Museum offers a detailed and accessible account of the 1944 campaign following D-Day. The museum is divided into three sections covering June, July and August, charting the progress of the fighting while also highlighting the roles of General de Gaulle and the French Resistance.


Bayeux War Cemetery

Just a short walk from the museum lies the Bayeux War Cemetery, the largest British and Commonwealth cemetery in Normandy. Immaculately maintained and deeply moving, it is the final resting place of around 4,144 Commonwealth soldiers killed elsewhere during the Battle of Normandy and later buried in Bayeux, alongside more than 400 German soldiers and a small number of French and Polish servicemen.

White headstones in rows at Bayeux War Cemetery. A sunny day with blue skies.
Bayeux War Cemetery

The Reporters’ Memorial

Nearby, the Reporters’ Memorial provides a quieter but equally powerful place of reflection. Set along a peaceful woodland walk, the memorial honours more than 2,000 journalists who have lost their lives covering conflicts and acts of terrorism around the world since World War II. Their names are carved into stone pillars, including those of Robert Capa, James Foley and the journalists of Charlie Hebdo.

Sweet treats at La Reine Mathilde

Indulge in exquisitely pretty patisseries in this historic tea room, dating back to 1898. Located at 47 Rue Saint-Martin, its elegant cream-and-gold interior features a sky-painted ceiling and a dazzling chandelier, making it as beautiful as the pastries themselves. It’s no surprise that the bakery was awarded Best Butter Croissant in Normandy in 2025.

A raspberry tart on a charming French cafe table, with medieval timbered houses behind.
Mouthwatering patisserie at La Reine Mathilde

Botanical Garden of Bayeux

Listed as a historic monument, Bayeux's Botanical Garden is one of the most beautiful 19th-century parks in Normandy. Created in 1859 by the Bühler brothers, the 2.6-hectare garden is best known for its remarkable weeping beech, classified as a natural monument in 1932 and recognised as a Remarkable Tree of France since 2000.


Baron Gérard Museum of Art and History

Art lovers will enjoy the Baron Gérard Museum of Art and History (MAHB), housed in the former bishop’s palace beside the cathedral. Its collections span archaeology, fine art, lace and porcelain, offering a broader view of Bayeux’s cultural heritage.


A guided walking tour

If you'd like an in-depth orientation of Bayeux, book onto the 2 hour guided walking tour with Discovery Walks. Run by Marie-Noëlle and Christèle, the "Ladies with green hats" leave everyday at 9:30am from outside the Tourism Office from March 1st - September 30th and take you on a fascinating, funny and highly educational journey through 2000 years of local history.


Petit Train Touristique de Bayeux

If you’re visiting with children, Bayeux’s little tourist train is a great option. The electric Petit Train Touristique de Bayeux offers a roughly 45-minute commentary tour of the town, including the Old Town’s picturesque streets, historic monuments and the British War Cemetery, all while seated and relaxed. It departs regularly from outside the Tourist Office at Pont Saint-Jean during the season (typically April through early November) with commentary available in multiple languages. Tickets are sold on board on the day and are excellent value for a gentle introduction to Bayeux’s history and layout.


Market day

If you’re visiting on a Saturday morning, Bayeux’s weekly market brings the town to life, with stalls selling local cheeses, cider, seafood and fresh produce.


Explore the river on foot

One of the greatest pleasures of Bayeux is simply wandering its Old Town, particularly along the River Aure, where half-timbered houses, old waterwheels and stone bridges create some of the town’s most photogenic scenes.

Bayeux's famous water wheel
Bayeux's famous water wheel

Sample sumptuous Norman cuisine in one of Bayeux's fabulous restaurants:

Normandy is renowned for its food, and Bayeux has no shortage of excellent places to eat. From classic brasseries to more refined dining, the town’s restaurants showcase rich Norman flavours, local produce and seafood fresh from the coast. Our top picks are:

  • Brasserie des Ducs

  • Gourmandise et Tradition

  • L'Alcove

  • La Volet Qui Penche

  • La Normande


Where to stay in Bayeux:

David, Jamie and I spent two nights at Hotel Reine Mathilde (you'll see this name a lot in Normandy, she was William the Conqueror's wife), a comfortable and perfectly located hotel in Bayeux's Old Town with a delicious continental buffet breakfast. Less than 5 minutes walk from the Bayeux Tapestry Museum and the Cathedral (our room had Cathedral views), it's an ideal base camp for exploring the town, and even if you're staying elsewhere, their restaurant is an excellent choice for dinner.


If you're travelling in larger group, consider booking a holiday apartment or gite! We visited Bayeux with grandparents and my sister and brother in law and stayed in La Cour Royale, 16/18 Rue Royale: a wonderful 3 bedroom apartment with kitchen, dining room, two bathrooms, sitting room and use of a beautiful garden


Exploring Normandy from Bayeux

Bayeux is an ideal base for discovering the treasures of Normandy. From historic battlefields to charming coastal towns, there’s plenty to explore within easy reach of the town.


Day Trips from Bayeux: D-Day Landing Beaches and Cherbourg

The D-Day Landing Beaches are just a short drive away: half an hour or less by car from Omaha, Juno and Gold Beaches and under 50 minutes drive from Sword and Utah, making Bayeux the perfect starting point for exploring these historic sites. Cherbourg and the Cotentin Peninsula are also within easy reach - about an hour’s drive - offering a mix of history, coastline and charming villages to discover.


Mont-Saint-Michel from Bayeux

One of Normandy’s most iconic sights, Mont-Saint-Michel, is roughly a 90-minute drive from Bayeux. This dramatic tidal island and abbey is a must-see for visitors and makes a memorable day trip from the town.

Sheep gazing in front of Mont St Michel
Magnificent Mont St Michel

Honfleur and Deauville

Just under an hour and a half from Bayeux, the neighbouring towns of Honfleur and Deauville offer a perfect mix of history, art and seaside charm.


Honfleur is a picturesque harbour town steeped in Impressionist heritage. Stroll the cobbled streets of the Old Town, admire the narrow, colourful houses reflected in the Vieux Bassin, and step inside the spectacular Eglise Sainte-Catherine - one of France’s largest wooden churches, with an epic double nave shaped like an upturned boat. Art lovers can visit the Musée Eugène Boudin to see works by local boy Boudin, his protégé Monet and other painters inspired by Honfleur and the Seine Estuary.


Deauville, by contrast, is Normandy’s stylish 19th-century seaside resort, often called the “Parisian Riviera.” Its 2 km white sand beach is lined with 450 colourful Art Deco beach huts and bordered by the famous promenade, Les Planches. Belle Époque landmarks such as the ornate Casino Barrière, the half-timbered Villa Strassburger and the opulent Normandy Barrière hotel add glamour, while world-class polo matches, horse races, and the Deauville American Film Festival keep the cultural calendar busy.

Top: Honfleur, bottom: Deauville


How to get to Bayeux:


By ferry:

Coming from the UK? We arrived by car after taking the Brittany Ferries crossing from Portsmouth to Caen. The journey takes around six hours, with sailings at 08:00, 15:00 and 23:00, and Bayeux is approximately a 40-minute drive from the port at Ouistreham. An alternative route is the ferry from Poole to Cherbourg, a shorter crossing of around four hours and forty-five minutes, though this service runs just once a day.


By train and plane:

Bayeux is also easy to reach by train. Direct services from Paris Saint-Lazare take between two and a half and three hours. If you are flying into Paris, you can travel from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Saint-Lazare in around 45 minutes using the RER train network, then continue by train to Bayeux.


Planning more time in Normandy? These guides will help you explore beyond Bayeux.



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About Us

Hello!

 

We're Emma and David from TeamThomasTravels, husband and wife travel bloggers from the United Kingdom. With 6 continents and close to 50 countries between us, we love to write about our favourite top travel tips, itineraries and ways you can travel on a budget.

We love hiking, camping in our van conversion, Osprey, and hope to plan to climb Kilimanjaro in the not too distant future!

 

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