Spires, Sausage Rolls and the Magna Carta: A guide to one day in lovely Lincoln
- teamthomastravels
- 1 hour ago
- 10 min read
Planning your next English day trip? We just spent a day exploring lovely Lincoln and its fascinating history, featuring one of the finest cathedrals in the country, a medieval castle, and a Victorian prison museum. From the ancient Roman ruins to the picturesque old streets, here is our guide to the top things to do with one day in Lincoln.
Lincoln has been one of England's greatest cities since its foundation by the Romans as Lindum Colonia in approximately AD 71. Originally established as a mighty fortress for the Ninth Legion, it evolved into one of the most significant Roman settlements in Britain before the Normans arrived in 1068 to construct a castle atop its strategic hill. It later became a major site of pilgrimage, boasting the fourth largest cathedral in the country and acting as a home for the 1215 Magna Carta.
Lincoln is a city of two halves: Uphill (historic old town where you'll find the cathedral, castle and its loveliest old streets) and Downhill (main high street with modern shops, chain restaurants,the river and the lively marina). If you've come in by train or parked at the bottom, you'll first need to conquer another one of Lincoln's most famous landmarks, Steep Hill. Not named for nothing, this is the 4th steepest street in England (what are the top 3 like??) and the climb will certainly get your heart pumping! So much for Lincolnshire being flat...
Steep Hill and Uphill Lincoln
Luckily, Steep Hill is a beautiful cobbled street full of historic buildings, quaint tearooms and independent boutiques to keep you distracted from your aching legs. Keep your eyes peeled for Jew's House near the beginning: dating from the period following the Norman Conquest, it is one of the oldest townhouses in England and today is home to an outstanding fine dining restaurant. Closer to the top, you will find the Cardinal's Hat, a pub set within a beautiful black and white Tudor half timbered building. Its name is thought to have been a reference to Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, who was Bishop of Lincoln from 1514-15.
You'll emerge into the main square on Castle Hill with another Tudor building infront of you, now the Lincoln Visitor Information Centre. To your left is Lincoln Castle, and to your right, Exchequer Gate and the soaring towers of Lincoln Cathedral.
Lincoln Cathedral
Once you have caught your breath, start at the cathedral. At nearly 1000 years old, it was once the tallest building in the world: until 1549, a huge central spire increased the cathedral's height to a colossal 160 metres (525 feet), which was almost double its current height and taller than the Great Pyramid of Giza! Sadly, a fierce winter storm caused the spire to collapse, and today the cathedral stands at a more modest 83 metres (271 feet).
The exterior is famous for its intricate stonework, especially the Romanesque frieze on the West Front which depicts vivid scenes from the Bible. Inside, you are met by a beautiful nave and colourful stained glass windows, including two massive rose windows known as the Dean’s Eye and the Bishop’s Eye. A dark grey slab is all that remains of the tomb of Little Hugh, a somber example of 13th century anti-semitic scapegoating, where the local Jewish community was falsely accused of murdering a young boy. This libel led to the imprisonment of many and the execution of 18 Jewish men at the Tower of London.
In the Sanctuary, look out for the tomb of Katherine Swynford, mistress and then wife of John of Gaunt (they married in Lincoln Cathedral in 1396), and grandmother of Plantagenet Kings Edward IV and Richard III and on the main altar, another royal tomb, this one for Eleanor of Castile (for whom the Eleanor Crosses are dedicated) - while her body is buried in Westminster Abbey, when Eleanor died in 1290, her internal organs were removed as part of the embalming process to prepare her body for the long journey down to London, and all except for her heart were buried in Lincoln Cathedral.
While exploring the area around the altar, look high up on one of the limestone pillars to find the famous Lincoln Imp. Local legend says that the Devil sent two imps to the cathedral to cause mayhem: while one hid under a table, the other began throwing things at the clergy. An angel appeared from a book of hymns and turned the mischievous creature to stone, leaving him frozen in his cheeky pose for eternity while his companion supposedly fled on the wind and is now claimed by Grimsby Minster.
Leaving the main cathedral, wander through the beautiful cloisters and our personal highlight, the decagonal Chapter House: its gorgeous vaulted ceiling is entirely supported by one central pillar, with stone ribs spreading out across the ceiling like branches of a tree. If you can do so without disturbing others, try whistling - the acoustics are amazing.
Adults: Monday to Saturday £12.95, Sunday £10.95. Under 16s: free.
Charges apply between 10am and 4pm Monday to Saturday, and 11.30am (or when the morning service finishes) and 2.30pm on Sunday.
Lunch supplies from a local favourite
For lunch, head just around the corner onto Bailgate to visit the Redhill Farm Shop. This local favourite has been featured by Rick Stein and endorsed by Jamie Oliver, and their free range pork pies are even official suppliers of Wimbledon! Unfortunately, they were so popular that they had already sold out during our visit, which gives us an excellent excuse for a return trip. We opted for two Lincolnshire sausage rolls instead - absolutely delicious, served warm and generously meaty with light, crispy pastry. Directly opposite the shop is the White Hart Hotel, where the first military tank was dreamt up by Sir William Tritton and Major Walter Wilson in 1915. It also hosted Tom Hanks while he was filming The Da Vinci Code at the nearby cathedral.
Lincoln Castle
Next up is Lincoln Castle, built by William the Conqueror in 1068. Today nothing is left of the mighty Norman keep, but the medieval walls now enclose the site of a former Victorian prison. The central grounds are entirely free to visit, making it a lovely spot for a picnic (this is where we enjoyed our sausage rolls).
Medieval Walls Walk
To walk Lincoln Castle's walls, you will need to purchase a full museum ticket from the main prison building. While half of the wall walk is currently closed for refurbishment, luckily the section facing the cathedral remains open. This stretch offers spectacular views of the mighty towers soaring above the city rooftops.
The Victorian Prison
Inside the castle walls sits the prison. The red brick frontage is Georgian, though the rest of the building is Victorian, rebuilt to be more humane according to the standards of the time. You can explore the cells, walkways and the exercise yard, but the most striking feature is the chapel. Here, prisoners sat in individual wooden boxes, designed so they could only see the pulpit and not interact with one another. Despite the dark history of the site, it is very family friendly with various hands on activities and costumes for children. The prison is also almost entirely accessible for wheelchairs and buggies with lifts to all levels, apart from the chapel which is accessed via has steep stairs (and some cell doors might be too narrow for wheelchairs to pass through). The medieval walls are also not accessible to pushchairs or wheelchair users while the works are ongoing.
The Magna Carta Vault
The castle is also home to the Magna Carta vault, which houses one of only four remaining original copies of the 1215 document (The other three are held in Salisbury and the British Library). It is quite something to stand right in front of a document that essentially changed the course of history! Head down to the lowest level of the vault where you can watch an interesting film that provides context on why the Magna Carta remains relevant today.
Open 10am-5pm (until 4pm late October-late March)
Castle Day Ticket Adult £18.00, child (5 years to 16 years) £9.50, child under 5 free.
Roman Lincoln
Before heading back to Downhill Lincoln, there are a few Roman remains worth a quick detour, to see hints of what the city was like when it was known as Lindum Colonia. Seek out Newport Arch, the only Roman gateway in Britain that you can still drive a car through. Nearby, you can find the Mint Wall, the tallest section of non defensive Roman wall in Britain - the last fragment of a Roman basilica - and on the corner of Eastgate and East Bight, the chunky remains of the north tower of the Roman East Gate.
Downhill Lincoln
Refuel at Coffee Aroma
Retrace your steps down Steep Hill and pass through the Stonebow, a grand arched limestone building from 1520 that served as the southern entrance to the medieval city. Once through, turn left onto Guildhall Street and stop for a caffeine break at Coffee Aroma, one of the Guardian's top 10 coffee shops in the UK! Specialising in single origin coffee, you'll know by the amazingly rich smell that hits you the minute you enter that this is going to be something special.
High Bridge and the River Witham
Back on the main drag, Lincoln’s High Street is home to the High Bridge. This is the oldest bridge in the United Kingdom to still feature inhabited buildings on it, most notably the Stokes High Bridge Cafe. This handsome half-timbered building has straddled the River Witham since the mid-sixteenth century and is on our list to try out the next time we're in town. To get the best view of the structure, walk down the steps next to the cafe that lead to the waterside path.
Before you head down the steps, look the other direction down the river to see Empowerment by Stephen Broadbent, the largest sculpture in Lincolnshire. The two steel and aluminium figures stretching out to each other create the image of a turbine and represent Lincolnshire's industrial heritage.
Brayford Pool
Continue along the riverside path to your final stop, Brayford Pool. Those clever Romans widened the river here to create a significant inland harbour and today it has been transformed into a buzzing marina filled with bars, restaurants, and a cinema. It's also the home of Lincoln University!
If you have time before your train, finish your day with a waterside pint overlooking the boats at the Royal William IV pub. From there, the station is only a seven-minute walk away.
If you have the time, here are some other Lincoln pubs you might like to try:
Wig and Mitre
This is a lovely historic pub located on Steep Hill itself. It features traditional timber beams and has a reputation for serving excellent food in a traditional atmosphere.
Lion and Snake
The Lion and Snake is one of the oldest pubs in the city and is said to be haunted. Its sunny beer garden offers some of the most impressive views of the cathedral towers.
Magna Carta
Conveniently tucked between the cathedral and the castle, this friendly pub is named after the city's most famous historic document.
Strugglers Inn
Located right next to the castle, this 19th century pub has won awards for its cask ales! Its unusual name is a gruesome reference to the condemned prisoners on the nearby gallows of the past, believed to be located close by.
Cardinal’s Hat
The Grade II listed timber-framed building that houses this pub dates from the late 15th century. It was originally the home of a wealthy family of wool merchants before it was converted into an inn and is believed to be named after Cardinal Wolsey.
Witch and Wardrobe
A 16th century pub situated along the river near High Bridge in the lower part of the city. Itst also Grade II listed and is rumoured to be haunted by a few resident spirits...
Additional Things to Do in Lincoln
If you have more than one day or want to swap out some of the main sights, Lincoln has plenty of other treasures to explore:
Brunch at the Cosy Club
For a bit of 1930s grandeur, stop for brunch at the Cosy Club, located within the beautifully restored Corn Exchange building.
Usher Gallery
Art enthusiasts should visit the Usher Gallery, which houses a diverse collection including works by Lowry, Turner, Constable and Grayson Perry.
Lincoln Museum
The Lincoln Museum is another great stop for history lovers, though it is currently closed for a major redevelopment. It is worth checking the official website before you visit to see if the archaeology galleries have reopened.
The Arboretum
If you fancy a bit of greenery, the Arboretum is a beautiful Victorian park just a ten minute walk from the cathedral. Spread across 22 acres, it features traditional gardens, a bandstand, a hedge maze and plenty of green space to relax.
The Cheese Society
Foodies should make a point of visiting the Cheese Society, the perfect place to sample local specialities like Lincolnshire Poacher or Lincolnshire Red.
Ghost Walk
With thousands of years of history, Lincoln has a lot of spooky stories to tell! To explore the darker side of the city's history, you can join a local ghost walk around the Bailgate area. These evening tours tell the tales of the spirits said to still haunt the medieval streets.
International Bomber Command Centre
Located on the edge of the city, this centre is a poignant memorial and museum dedicated to recognition, remembrance and reconciliation for the men and women who served in Bomber Command during the Second World War. Visitors can experience three interactive and immersive galleries, two landscaped Peace Gardens and guided tours. The 102 ft memorial spire, made of the same steel as Gateshead's Angel of the North, is the same height as an Avro Lancaster bomber's wingspan. It is the tallest war memorial in the UK.
Daisy Made Farm
If you are visiting with family, Daisy Made Farm is a ten minute drive away from Lincoln. It offers delicious homemade ice cream, a play area, crazy golf and a chance to meet various farm animals. There's even an ice cream drive-through if you're short on time!
Lincoln’s Asylum Steampunk Festival
If your visit falls in August, you might experience Lincoln's world famous steampunk festival! This unique event celebrates a fictional version of the past where Victorian/Edwardian style meets futuristic technology. If you're not interested or would prefer a quieter visit, we would suggest avoiding this weekend as the city becomes extremely busy on these dates!
How to get to Lincoln
Lincoln is in the county of Lincolnshire, in the East Midlands, close to Newark, Nottingham, and Hull.
By car: Lincoln is well served by major roads, including the A1, the A46, and the A15. If you are coming from the south or the London area, the easiest route is via the A1 and the A15 or by taking the A46 from Leicester and Newark. From the north, you will likely enter the city via the A15 from Hull or the A46 from Grimsby, while those travelling from the west can take the A1 and A57.
By train: Lincoln Central railway station is in Downhill, at the southern end of the city centre. The High Street is just a short walk away, making it easy to start your day without needing extra transport. Direct services to Lincoln are operated by LNER, East Midlands Railway and Northern Rail, connecting the city to major hubs including London, Nottingham, Sheffield, Peterborough and Doncaster.
By air: Humberside International Airport is the nearest airport, located around 30 miles northeast of Lincoln and taking about 45 minutes by car. East Midlands Airport is slightly further at about 50 miles southwest, which takes around an hour and fifteen minutes to reach by road. The London airports are all easily accessible via train.
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